Inventor Of S’pore Chilli Crab Cher Yam Tian Passes Away At 90, Food Connoisseurs Pay Tribute

Original Chilli Crab Inventor Mdm Cher Passes Away On 15 Feb

When it comes to all-time favourite Singapore foods, there are few dishes that can rival the chilli crab.

Lesser known to Singaporeans is perhaps the fact that the dish was created by Mdm Cher Yam Tian in the mid-1950s.

Unfortunately, on Wednesday (15 Feb), Mdm Cher, who would have been 90 this year, passed away.

Mdm Cher invented chilli crab in 1950s

Recalling memories from his childhood, Mdm Cher’s son Roland Lee shared with Our Grandfather Story (OGS) that his mum would often steam crabs caught by his dad.

When his dad challenged Mdm Cher to come up with a different recipe, she decided to incorporate some chillies and tomatoes.

After gaining praise from her family and neighbours for the dish, they decided to start selling chilli crab as a dish.

In 1956, Mdm Cher and her husband set up a humble pushcart stall along the seaside with a kerosene lamp and two tables.

Their business flourished and in 1962, they opened their own restaurant named Palm Beach Seafood at 514 Upper East Coast Road.

By this time, the chilli crab was fast becoming an iconic national dish.

Over the years, notable Chinese cuisine chefs like Mr Hooi Kok Wah created different versions of the chilli crab.

Mr Hooi’s version of the dish, which is slightly sourer, is now the more common one. He apparently incorporates lemon juice, vinegar, sambal, tomato paste, and egg into the dish.

Later in 1984, the family sold some of their shares in the business as they migrated to New Zealand, noted Singapore Infopedia.

Son Roland continues culinary legacy

Mdm Cher’s family went on to stay in New Zealand for 22 years before returning to Singapore. Meanwhile, her son Roland only stayed for a few months.

According to ieatishootipost, he returned to Singapore prematurely as he felt he couldn’t open a seafood restaurant in New Zealand.

Upon returning, Roland worked at Palm Beach Restaurant for years before joining his godfather at Sin Leong Restaurant.

The restaurant was later handed to Roland. With his godfather’s blessing, he renamed the store Roland Restaurant.

Roland Restaurant, located at Block 89, Marine Parade Central, now serves up the same five famous dishes the family restaurant was known for — Mdm Cher’s original chilli crab recipe, soy sauce prawns, crispy baby squid, cockles with chilli, and seafood hor fan.

Later in 2009, then-Malaysian tourism minister Ng Yen Yen said Malaysia will be trying to stake claims on several Singapore dishes, including chilli crab.

What followed was an onslaught of media attention, all stating Singapore as the origin of chilli crab, reported ieatishootipost.

Mdm Cher and her family also received renewed public interest.

Singaporeans pay tribute to chilli crab inventor

Since Mdm Cher’s passing, several Singapore food connoisseurs have paid tribute to the chilli crab inventor and her legacy.

In a Facebook post, food blogger Leslie Tay who runs ieatishootipost, bade farewell to Mdm Cher whom he deemed a “culinary legend”.

“The best way to remember her is to be familiar with the story of chilli crab,” he said.

KF Seetoh, food critic and founder of Makansutra, also took to Facebook to pay tribute to Mdm Cher.

As a testament to her impact on the culinary world, Mr Seetoh said even in New York, people who have never been to Singapore are chomping down on chilli crabs.

Our condolences go out to Mdm Cher and her family for the tragic passing.

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Featured images adapted from OGS on YouTube and Roland Restaurant.