When you chat with someone born into a Japanese family that’s been brewing sake for 300 years, the last thing you would expect is to hear him describe himself as “80% Singaporean”.
Then again, Takagi Takaaki, 73, has lived here for almost five decades and built a restaurant chain that occupies a spot in the memories of many Lion City denizens: Tampopo.
Born in Gifu Prefecture, he spoke to MS News during an interview at Tampopo’s fourth-floor outlet at Ngee Ann City. Mr Takagi was originally set to take over the family sake brewery, Okuhida (which, yes, dates back to 1720).
Instead, after graduating from university, he asked for permission to leave to “see the world,” before eventually settling down and taking the reins.
At the time, Pokka, the Japanese beverage company partially owned by his father, was expanding overseas, including to Singapore.
He arrived in 1977 as a sales executive, intending to stay no more than five years before heading back by the age of 30.
What was meant to be a short stint stretched into decades.
While Pokka is now a household name in Singapore, its local operations were struggling at the time. So Mr Takagi threw himself into turning things around.
In 1983, he was promoted to managing director. After which he expanded the business beyond Singapore into markets such as China, Europe, and the Middle East.
Around the same time, his personal life was taking shape. He met his wife, who is also from Japan, in Hong Kong, where they were both working. They got married in 1986, and their daughter, Sae, was born the following year.
However, in 2003, the company’s major shareholder decided to sell, leaving him with little choice but to resign.
“I felt like I lost everything after 26 years,” he said. “I was very disappointed, but I had no choice but to take the experience I gained and build the rest of my life. That’s why I decided to start Tampopo.”
So in 2003, Mr Takagi moved his family from Hong Kong to Singapore. He acquired five restaurants that had been operating under the Daimaru brand, reworked each concept, and brought them under a new name: Tampopo.
The name itself draws from a mix of inspirations: the cult 1985 Japanese comedy, the hardy dandelion, and, coincidentally, Mr Takagi’s own name, which starts with “T”.
The first outlet opened in May 2004 at the now-demolished Liang Court, starting as a family-style Japanese restaurant that would later become known for its ramen.
Source: FoodieFC
However, the early days were far from easy. While Mr Takagi had spent decades in the beverage business, restaurants were a different beast altogether.
“I’d never made ramen from scratch before, so I had to call in friends from Japan to teach me everything, from preparing the broth to making the noodles. At the same time, we had to train our staff to cook authentic Japanese food,” he shared.
Ingredients were another hurdle. Back then, sourcing authentic Japanese produce wasn’t as straightforward. So Mr Takagi built his own supply chains from the ground up, applying for import licences and working out the logistics to bring ingredients in directly.
For the first three years, he worked every single day without a break.
The effort paid off. Tampopo would go on to popularise dishes like ramen and kurobuta pork in Singapore. The brand made what was once considered niche Japanese cuisine more accessible to everyday diners.
Even today, that same hands-on approach is evident. Mr Takagi said he still drops by the restaurant “seven days” a week, staying closely involved in operations.
He certainly has the energy for it. During our interview, he spoke with an enthusiasm that belied his septuagenarian status, animated and eager as he shared stories.
Part of his day-to-day work involves working directly with suppliers in Japan, sourcing ingredients, and developing new ideas, including seasonal menus.
One such example is the ongoing Niigata Food Fair, running at Tampopo till 30 April.
Image courtesy of Brand Cellar
The idea came about after Mr Takagi chanced upon a Niigata-focused restaurant in Tokyo’s Ginza district last August. “I was quite impressed. I thought, this is amazing,” he recalled.
From there, he tapped into his network, eventually working with contacts and even the Niigata government to bring the concept to Singapore.
For a limited time, diners can try Niigata-grown Shinnosuke rice, a premium variety known for its subtle sweetness, rich flavour, and springy texture.
Image courtesy of Brand Cellar
Mr Takagi managed to bring in 200kg, enough for around 4,000 bowls, despite its limited production. “Even the government told me it’s very hard to get,” he said with a laugh.
Beyond the rice, the menu also features ingredients flown in directly from Niigata Prefecture, including vegetables like Oguchi lotus root, prized for its crisp texture, and seafood from Sado Island, known for its naturally sweet shrimp.
Image courtesy of Brand Cellar
Other standout items include the Niigata Umaimon Gozen, which showcases a variety of regional specialties in one set, and snow-aged coffee, with beans stored in a traditional snow cellar to create a smoother, less bitter brew.
To enhance authenticity, Japanese chefs were invited to Singapore to guide the team in preparing the dishes traditionally.
It may sound like a lot of effort for a limited-time menu, but for Mr Takagi, it’s simply part of his larger mission: to continue bringing good and authentic Japanese food to Singapore, and to do it properly.
That same philosophy is also what he hopes to pass on, which is why slowing down isn’t really part of the plan for now.
Aside from believing that staying active at work keeps him fit, Mr Takagi admitted there is still a “very long way to go” before he can fully hand over the business to his daughter, with the transition happening gradually over time.
Not that she is new to the industry. A Le Cordon Bleu-trained pastry chef and former banker, Ms Sae has carved out her own path within the business, launching dessert shop Dulcet & Studio in 2012.
In many ways, her role mirrors her father’s, driving menu development and introducing new ideas, including incorporating local flavours like pandan into Japanese-style creations, such as their best-selling pandan chiffon cake.
With three young daughters aged one, three, and five, Ms Sae juggles family life with her Singaporean husband alongside her role in the business, something Mr Takagi is keenly aware of.
“She has to be a mother, a wife, and a manager; she has to do a lot,” he noted.
As such, Mr Takagi’s focus is on gradually building a more sustainable system within the company. All while preparing both his daughter and the wider team to take on greater responsibilities.
For Ms Sae, the journey has been gradual.
“There are good days and bad days,” she said of the balancing act. “But my father has been very supportive and understanding.”
More than anything, she sees her role as continuing what he started. “It’s about observing him day to day. What’s important is to continue the legacy of authenticity and maintain relationships with Japanese suppliers and farmers.”
That legacy isn’t just something she carries at work. It shows up at home, too.
“Every Sunday, we eat Tampopo,” she added with a laugh. “My duty is to teach [my children] to enjoy Japanese food.”
Not that it seems like a particularly difficult task. Especially judging by how readily Singaporeans have embraced it over the years.
For more information on Tampopo and the Niigata Food Fair, follow their Instagram accounts for the Basement 2 and Level 4 outlets at Ngee Ann City.
Also read: S’porean siblings take over 30-year-old handmade pau business to keep ageing parents’ legacy alive
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Featured image by MS News. Photography by Cassia Leong for MS News.