Soaring rental rates in the food and beverage sector have claimed another longstanding business.
Zhong Xing Foo Chow Fish Ball & Lor Mee, which began as a roadside stall on China Street more than 80 years ago and is now located in a Bukit Merah HDB estate along Silat Avenue, is closing its doors.
On Monday (26 Aug), Shin Min Daily News reported that the owner, 68-year-old Madam Wong, has decided to retire and shutter the business.
The closure is attributed to her declining health and a significant rent increase expected after an upcoming renovation of the coffeeshop where her stall is situated.
According to Shin Min Daily News, Zhong Xing’s last day of operation was Sunday (25 Aug).
When reporters visited the coffeeshop around 9am, several patrons were already queuing in front of the stall, despite it not yet being open.
By lunchtime, there was a steady stream of customers, all eager to enjoy Madam Wong’s dishes for the last time.
Many long-time supporters found it difficult to say goodbye.
One regular, 70-year-old Mr Zheng, used to drive 45 minutes almost every weekend just to dine at Zhong Xing.
He has been a loyal customer since the stall’s days on China Street and praised its handmade fish balls.
“Although I will miss their lor mee, they have worked hard since their youth, so it’s time for them to retire,” he said.
Another customer, 47-year-old Ms Zheng, noted that three generations of her family have frequented the stall.
On Zhong Xing’s final day, she brought her entire family of 10 for a meal.
After moving to Singapore from Fuzhou in their 20s, Madam Wong’s parents established a modest roadside stall in 1942, offering authentic Fuzhou fish balls and lor mee.
Business thrived, and Madam Wong began helping at the stall after finishing secondary school.
In 1982, following her father’s death, her older brother, now 70, joined her in running the stall.
During its peak, Madam Wong recalls having to cut up to 100kg of fish daily and managing long queues outside the shop.
For decades, she, her husband, and her brother started work early each morning.
While she and her husband handled food preparation and cooking, her brother made the fish balls by hand.
“Being a hawker is really tough,” Madam Wong said. “We’ve worked from a young age and are now full of aches and pains.”
The decision to close Zhong Xing is also due to an upcoming renovation of the coffeeshop in September, which will lead to a substantial rent increase from over S$2,000 to more than S$6,000.
“Most of our support comes from elderly patrons and long-time customers, so I didn’t want to raise prices,” Madam Wong explained.
“We’re getting older, and it’s time to retire. It’s hard to let go, but there’s no other choice. We’re deeply grateful for everyone’s support over the years.”
Although Madam Wong and her brother inherited the business from their parents, they are not interested in passing it on to the next generation.
Madam Wong has no children, and her brother’s children are all professionals.
He noted that while his youngest son had once shown interest in taking over, he is now studying at the National University of Singapore (NUS).
Due to the demanding nature of being a hawker, he decided against allowing his son to pursue it.
Also read: Iconic Ponggol Seafood restaurant closes after over 50 years due to high overheads
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Featured image adapted from Shin Min Daily News and Google Maps.
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